Like printing on glass, a PVA based glue stick applied to the bed can be helpful with bed adhesion for garolite build surfaces. Whether it's directly on a heated bed, a sheet of glass, PEI glass or a FlexPlate System, we recommend the garolite sheet be attached to some kind of build plate that is able to transfer heat to this build surface. When printing on a garolite surface, a build plate is required with nylon filament. We've found that a bed heated to 75 ☌ with a thin layer of glue applied in a cross-hatch pattern works best for glass plates.
Elmer’s or Scotch permanent glue sticks are inexpensive and easily found at a reasonable price. A PVA based glue stick applied to the bed is the best method of bed adhesion. When printing on glass or garolite, a heated bed is required with nylon filament.
We've found 3D printing nylon can warp about as much as ABS. To learn more about desiccant as well as some useful 3D printing tools, click here. If using a system like the PrintDry, you can leave the spool in the unit and print directly from it, keeping moisture at bay while on those long prints. Keep in mind that most all convection and household ovens do not regulate their temperature well at these lower temperatures and can easily warp your spool or soften the plastic causing it to deform and even adhere the filament stands together.Īfter drying, either immediately print with it in a room that isn't cold or drafty or store it in an airtight container with desiccant to use for later. Just place the spools in the PrintDry chamber, set the system to 75c, and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.Īnother way to dry nylon filament is by placing it in an oven at 160☏ - 180☏ for 6 to 8 hours. MatterHackers' preferred tool for drying Nylon is the PrintDry system. When you 3D print with nylon filament that isn’t dry, the water in the filament explodes causing air bubbles during printing that prevents good layer adhesion, greatly weakens the part and ruins the surface finish. No doubt about it successful 3D printing with nylon and nylon-based materials require dry filament.ĭry nylon, on the other hand, prints buttery smooth and has a glossy finish.ĭesiccant helps keep filaments dry, but packets of desiccant are nowhere near enough to actually extract the moisture from your 3D printing materials. Nylon can absorb more than 10% of its weight in water in less than 24 hours which is why it is best to not leave hygroscopic filaments sitting out in the open. Nylon filament is incredibly hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water from the air. Nylon Filament Must Be Dried Before Printing This allows nylon to achieve a better grip on the bed for a successful flat first layer, leading to a successful nylon 3D print overall for years to come. Using a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand down the top of the garolite to remove any blemishes and reveal a more textured, even surface. Another perk of using a garolite surface is its strong adhesion quality that lasts for thousands of prints with sandpaper.
Made out of fiberglass linen cloth laminated with epoxy resin, this surface has high stability over temperature so it easily withstands the 60 ☌ recommended for successful nylon bed adhesion on a heated bed. Our personal favorite surface to use with nylon filament is LayerLock Garolite Build Surface. With the addition of a PVA glue stick, both surfaces provide the bed adhesion necessary to bind prints to the build surface for a smooth 3D printing experience. For nylon, garolite sheets and glass plates are two build surfaces we've seen produce the most consistent successful results. Like with any other type of filament, the bed surface you choose to print nylon on can be the make or break between warping and successful 3D printing. Bed Surface Matters: Garolite, Glass and PVA Glue
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